worth the vaporetto trip
Just about a year ago, my family and I had a transcendent rosato experience at I Figli delle Stelle, a quietly superb dining destination hiding in plain sight on the promenade of Giudecca, the island in the Venetian Lagoon. The restaurant looks north directly at another favorite lunch spot, Linea D'Ombra on the Dorsoduro.
The Corte Sant’Alda “Agathe” Verona Rosato is a limited-edition wine you'll only find in Venice or Verona. It is certified Biodynamic (designated by a “Demeter” stamp on the back label), which means that the vinetenders practice a holistic form of farming that predates organic agriculture and incorporates herbal remedies.
Molinara, a grape with dark-pink skins that’s used in Valpolicella reds, gave this rosato its rose-petal pink color. Maceration, fermentation, and aging all happen in traditional terra-cotta amphorae, with minimum intervention (indigenous yeast, no sulfur added, no temperature control).
The vintage I tasted was 12% alcohol by volume, making it the ideal lunchtime sipper. It had a creamy and delicate gossamer quality—a weightlessness that I don't normally associate with amphora-fermented wines. After that meal, the vaporetto home felt as though it were floating on a cloud.